surreal

Having an amazing time here. I have been in classes for three days and am learning so much it is overwhelming. Every morning we have classes starting at 9:30 until 1 and then from 3 until 5:30. By the end of the day I am absolutely exhausted but ready for more the next day. On Monday we had a lecture from the famous Ghanaian ethnomusicologist named Nketia. It was amazing hearing his stories of how he worked with some of the most most well-known African leaders such as Kwame Nkrumah and Jerry Rawlings. He was incredibly influential in Ghana during the colonial period and worked side by side with Nkrumah, one of the founders of pan-Africanism, to develop Ghanaian music. His theories on ethnomusicology are incredible. We heard a piece that he composed for cello based on a traditional rhythm from Ghana. I am hoping to get a hold of the piece and possibly find a cello on campus. We are also currently working with a British- Ghanaian who has been living in Ghana for the past 40 years... John Collins. Collins has been incredibly influential in popular music here over the past couple of decades. He gives us lectures on how African and Western Music (much of which came from West Africa and crossed back to the continent) have merged and the variety of forms it has taken. His stories are amazing... working with Fela Kuti etc. and struggling with other musicians during hard times in Ghana's history. We will be visiting his Highlife music institute tomorrow and will be learning more about the rhythms and other characteristics or Afro-Beat, Afro-Soul, and Palm Wine Music... should be pretty cool.

In the afternoon we all gather under the trees behind the music school to learn Ewe drumming styles, dance and songs. It is really challenging learning this music especially since it is never written down. We go over incredibly complex songs on the drums then learn the accompanying dances. Quite the workout. Ewe drumming takes place on something kind of like a djembe. A lot of it is played with simple sticks but the hand and the side of the drum are also used. Much work to do in this class!! It is really funny watching people laugh at the Westerners struggling with the drumming.

Between classes and in the evening we usually go to an outdoor market right outside of campus. It is surreal... traditional foods are served at various stations as women cut up fruit and vegetables on the ground and grains are pounded with giant sticks. Great place to talk with Ghanaians (who are incredibly friendly) and people watch. Newest food... wyaake... a combination of red rice and beans with some mysterious spicy red sauce on top... quite good. A lot of the food is very similar to the things that you would find in Louisiana... red beans and rice and gumbo etc. I can see where the influence came from.

On Friday we will be leaving for Kokrobite on the coast where we will study with a famous drummer and partake in some much needed beach time. I still can't believe that I am here doing this. All of us are kind of in shock but have figured most of how the country works. I can already tell that the trip is going to end too soon. The conversations I am having with Ghanaians have been incredible... they are so proud of their country and are excited that Westerners are interested in it. Anyways, more on that later. Off to do some reading and much needed laundry. I hope that everybody is well. Ciao.

Oh yeah... for my friends, can't log onto facebook anymore. my apologies if somebody else now has access to my account... hmm.